Start by watching what the oven does
When an oven won't heat, watching it for two minutes tells you more than any guess. Set it to bake at 350°F. On a gas oven, look through the slots in the oven floor or the broiler drawer: you want to see the igniter glow and, within about a minute, a blue flame. On an electric oven, look at the bake element on the floor of the cavity (or listen for the click of the relay on hidden-element models) and feel for warmth. What you see sorts the fault into one of the rows below.
| What you see | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Gas: igniter glows, no flame after a minute or more | weak igniter not opening the safety valve |
| Gas: no glow at all | failed igniter, wiring, or no signal from the control |
| Gas: flame lights, then oven won't hold temperature | temperature sensor or control |
| Electric: bake element dark, visible blister or break | burned-out bake element |
| Electric: element looks fine but stays cold | element terminal, relay on the control, or sensor |
| Either: display shows a code or "F" number | sensor circuit or control fault; write the code down |
Checks before you call
- Settings. Make sure the oven is not in Sabbath mode, a timed or delayed cook, or control lock. Each one looks like a dead oven.
- Power and gas. Electric ovens need both halves of a double breaker; gas ovens still need 120 volts for the igniter and control, so a tripped breaker or unplugged cord stops them too. Other gas burners lighting means the gas supply is fine.
- A thermometer test. If the oven heats but results are off, put an oven thermometer on the middle rack for 20 minutes at 350°F. Many electronic controls let you adjust the temperature offset; the owner's manual shows how.
- After a self-clean. The door stays locked until the oven cools down. A self-clean cycle is also hard on thermal fuses and control boards, so a failure right after one is worth mentioning when you call.
Gas smell with no flame? Turn the oven off and don't try to light it by hand. If the smell does not clear within a minute or two, leave without touching switches and call 911 or the gas company from well away from the house.
What these repairs cost
| Repair | Parts and labor |
|---|---|
| Bake element (electric) | $100–$300 |
| Temperature sensor | $100–$250 |
| Gas valve | $100–$200 |
| Igniter (gas) | $200–$350 |
| Control board | $200–$600 |
Fixr national oven guide, updated August 29, 2025. Its range for an oven that is "slow to heat" is $100 to $600, which reflects how much depends on whether a board is involved.
Why a good technician tests before replacing
Igniters, elements and sensors are measured, not guessed. An igniter's current is read with an ammeter while it glows; an element and a sensor are read with an ohmmeter against the values in the model's technical sheet, which is often tucked behind a panel on the range itself. That is also how a failed relay on the control board is separated from a failed element: the element tests good, but no voltage reaches it. Ask what was measured if a board is recommended.
Hidden bake elements and convection ovens
Many newer electric ovens hide the bake element under the oven floor, so you cannot see a break. Convection ovens add a rear element and a fan; if the oven heats on bake but not on convection, the fan motor or the convection element is the suspect, not the main heat. The model number from the tag, usually inside the door frame or behind the storage drawer, tells the technician which layout you have.
Questions people ask next
My gas oven igniter glows but the oven never lights. Is the igniter bad?
Very often, yes, even though it glows. The safety valve on most gas ovens opens only when the igniter draws enough current, and a worn igniter can glow orange without reaching that point. A technician confirms it with an ammeter before replacing it.
The oven heats, but everything takes longer or burns. What is wrong?
That is a temperature problem, not a heating one. A drifting sensor, a door gasket that leaks heat, or a control that needs its offset adjusted can all cause it. Check the temperature with an oven thermometer on the middle rack after 20 minutes before calling.
Why does the broiler work but not the bake?
Because they are separate. On an electric oven the bake element at the bottom has probably failed; on a gas oven with a separate broil burner, the bake igniter is the usual suspect. The control and the power supply are fine if the broiler heats.
Sources
- How much does it cost to repair an oven?, Fixr, updated August 29, 2025.
- Emergency response: what to do if you suspect a gas leak, U.S. Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration, read September 29, 2026.
Reviewed October 1, 2026. Spotted an error? Write to admin@compareappliancerepair.com.