Silent: nothing happens at all
With no sound, current is not reaching the motor. If the drum light still comes on, power is reaching the dryer, which rules out the breaker and points inside. The chain it has to pass through is short, and the checks go from the wall inward.
- Power at the outlet. Electric dryers use a 240-volt outlet on a double breaker; gas dryers plug into an ordinary 120-volt outlet. Reset the breaker fully off, then on.
- Control lock or delay start. A lock icon or a countdown on the display means the dryer is doing what it was told.
- Door switch. Press the door firmly. If the drum light stays on with the door closed, or the switch lever looks bent, the dryer thinks the door is open.
- Thermal fuse. On many models this overheat fuse sits in the motor circuit, so when it blows the dryer goes dead rather than just cold.
- Start switch or control board. A push-to-start switch wears out; an electronic control can lose its power supply. A multimeter separates the two.
Humming or buzzing: power, but no movement
If you hear only a buzz, take your finger off the button the moment you hear it, because a motor that cannot turn heats up fast. Unplug the dryer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If it will not budge, something is jammed: a sock caught between drum and front seal, a failed roller, or a seized idler pulley. If the drum turns easily by hand but the motor still only hums, the motor or its internal start switch has failed.
Clicking, or starting then stopping
A click with no start is often a relay on the control or the door switch contacts. A dryer that starts, runs a few seconds and stops can be a motor that overheats and trips its internal protector, a door switch that bounces, or a thermal fuse or high-limit that is close to failing. Note how long it runs before stopping; that detail shortens the diagnosis.
What these repairs usually cost
| Cause | Parts and labor |
|---|---|
| Door switch | $50–$150 |
| Control knob | $50–$75 |
| Thermostat (high-limit) | $100–$260 |
| Timer | $150–$300 |
| Motor | $250–$450 |
Fixr national figures, updated January 31, 2025. Its "will not turn on" range is $50 to $450: the low end is a fuse or switch, the high end a motor.
Why the vent comes up on a no-start call
A thermal fuse blows because heat built up where it should have been carried away. If yours blew, ask the technician to check the duct behind the dryer and the flap at the wall before closing up. A fuse replaced without fixing the airflow can blow again within weeks. The page on a dryer not drying covers the vent run in detail.
What to mention on the phone
Tell them whether it is silent, humming or clicking, whether the drum turns by hand, and whether it is gas or electric. Have the model number from the tag inside the door opening ready. If the dryer is a stacked unit, say so; the technician may need to separate it from the washer.
Questions people ask next
The dryer buzzes when I press start but the drum does not move. Is the motor dead?
Not necessarily. A buzz or hum means the motor is getting power but cannot turn. A load jammed against the drum, a seized idler pulley or a failed motor start switch can all do that. Let go of the button right away, unplug, and check that the drum turns by hand.
Why does my dryer start only when I hold the button in?
Many dryers need the start button held for a second or two while the motor gets up to speed. If it stops the moment you release it, the motor may not be reaching speed, or the thermal fuse or a door switch contact is dropping out. That is a diagnosis job.
Can the lint trap stop a dryer from starting?
Not directly. But a lint-packed vent overheats the dryer, and on many models the thermal fuse that protects against overheating also cuts the motor. So a vent problem can show up as a dryer that will not start at all.
Sources
- How much does it cost to repair a dryer?, Fixr, updated January 31, 2025.
Reviewed October 1, 2026. Spotted an error? Write to admin@compareappliancerepair.com.